Monday, November 9, 2009

Macaron Day

macarons!

Happy Birthday Adriano Zumbo!

Three little words – Zumbo’s Macaron Day. Enough to make four sugar crazy girls and Karen’s Captain ditch whatever plans we had for the day and head down to Balmain. How does the legendary Adriano Zumbo celebrate his birthday? By creating sixty (!) flavours of macarons available for one day only! As far as we are concerned, Zumbo makes the best macarons in Sydney, not where technique is concerned, but the flavours he comes up with are so interesting and creative. We couldn’t wait to see what he had in store for us. And what better way to take part in the fun by ordering “one of each, please!”

macarons!

We took the box of goodies to the Café and sat down, admiring the colours. It was a thing of beauty. Zumbo didn’t quite make the 60 flavours he was aiming for, but our box contained 48 of the most beautiful macarons I’d ever seen. The list had been published the day before, so we chose at random, tasted and tried to determine what each one was. Here are my highlights:

Date and Orange – the first one we tried, but one I was still thinking about later that evening as a combination that worked incredibly well. Definitely kicked off with a bang.
Iced Vovo – Tasted so much like the biscuits, a great one for childhood nostalgia. The Finger Bun was also incredible.
Rice Pudding – Has been a firm favourite for a long time, so it was great to see it again!
Green Tea – Actually had a real matcha flavour, unlike so many green tea flavoured cakes and sweets, and I’m a green tea fiend so I loved this.
Lamington – Again, tasted so much like a real lamington with even a hint of strawberry jam, this was a real winner for me.
Chocolate and Passionfruit – It had been my favourite macaron at Lindt for a while, but this was so much better. An incredible balance of flavours.
Burnt Butter – Do I need to say more!
Mango & Tonka Bean – such a real, fresh mango flavour. Like biting into a mango when they’re at their seasonal peak.
Cheeseburger – I had to mention it, because I think it did what it set out to do, ie: taste like a real cheeseburger, complete with pickle and sesame seeds. It was a brilliant effort, but one I’m not sure I’d try again.
Other notable flavours were Caramello Koala, Strawberry Bubblegum, Popcorn, Blue Cheese and Pear, Olive Oil & Rosemary and Beer.

macarons!

It seemed like a good idea at the time, it really did, but after the fact, tucking into a huge box of greasy chips and gravy, with a headache from the sugar come-down and concerns about my blood sugar levels, we lament it might just be the craziest thing we’ve ever done. Until next year…

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Feels Like Yesterday

chorizo & thyme rolls

I know I’m starting to sound like a broken record, but every time I look at the calendar or flip the pages in my Moleskine diary, I am astounded by how fast this year has gone. It feels like yesterday, back this time last year, when I was stressed out of my mind finishing up major projects, thinking about graduating from college with a graphic design degree, and finding out the good news that my work wanted to put me on permanently.

This time last year I was still skipping out to Bourke St Bakery in Broadway for a much-needed long black in the morning, and often grabbing a chorizo and thyme roll to eat for lunch. They became one of my favourites, and I often had thoughts of trying to replicate it at home, but of course I never got around to it. That is, until I bought the Bourke St Bakery cookbook and flicked to the page that had the recipe. It had been almost a year since my last chorizo and thyme roll. I couldn’t resist.

The rolls are based on an olive oil dough that you can make with a ferment, or without. I chose to do it without this time, because the ferment takes a day to make, although I might try it this way in the future. The dough comes together easily in a stand mixer and I found the recipe easy to follow and very descriptive, letting you know what to look for each step of the way. To make the dough by hand is a little more difficult as it’s quite soft and sticky, but it’s definitely doable so don’t let that put you off. The dough itself is a great base for so many other recipes too, I used half of it to make the chorizo and thyme rolls, and the other half as pizza bases, and they were absolutely perfect.

The chorizo, caramelised onion and thyme flavours work so well together, and it tasted just as good as I remember from the bakery. I love the smell of bread baking this made my kitchen smell absolutely wonderful. They are great as a light lunch or brunch, but would be delicious as an accompaniment to wintery soup on a cold night. You could also experiment with other fillings as well – maybe sun-dried tomato with chilli and basil, or pumpkin, rosemary and blue cheese for something different.

Olive Oil Dough
Makes 1kg of dough, or two loaves
From the Bourke Street Bakery Cookbook by Paul Allam and David McGuinness

• 600g strong flour
• 13g fresh yeast (or 7g instant dried yeast hydrated with 10% of the water in the recipe)
• 400ml water
• 20ml extra virgin olive oil
• 20ml milk
• 1 ½ tablespoons sea salt

1. If using an electric mixer, place all of the ingredients into the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low speed for 2 minutes, then increase the speed to high and continue mixing for 5 minutes. The dough should come away from the edges of the bowl and have a silky complexion when done.
2. Place the dough in a container that has been sprayed with olive oil, cover with plastic wrap and set aside to bulk prove for 1 ½ hours.
3. Knock back the dough every 30 minutes during the bulk prove – twice in total. To knock back the dough, turn it onto a lightly floured surface and press out into a rectangle about 2.5cm thick. Use your hands to fold one third back onto itself, then repeat with the remaining third. Turn the dough 90 degrees and fold over again into thirds. Place back into the oiled container, cover with plastic wrap, and continue to bulk prove for a further 1 hour. Once the dough has finished its bulk prove it is ready to be divided and shaped.

Chorizo and Thyme Rolls
Makes 8 rolls

• 185g chorizo, cut into 1.5cm cubes
• 1 cup caramelised onion
• 6 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
• 2 teaspoons milk
• 1 kg olive oil dough

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Arrange the chorizo on baking trays lined with baking paper and cook for 5 minutes. Turn over and cook for a further 5 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.
2. In a bowl, mix together the chorizo and onion with their oils and add the thyme. Stir in the milk until well combined and set aside until needed.
3. To shape the olive oil dough, turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and roll it out into a 45 x 15cm rectangle, about 1.5cm thick. Lay the long side parallel with the edge of the bench and mark the dough into thirds with your finger. Lay half of the chorizo mixture inside the middle third of the dough, spreading it evenly to the edges. Fold the right third over the middle and lightly press down to push out any air bubbles.
4. Evenly spread the remaining chorizo mixture onto the folded third and fold over the left flap, lightly pressing down to seal.
5. Increase the oven temperature to 220°C (425°F). Use your fingers to mark the dough into thirds, this time parallel to the bench. Fold the top third over the middle third, then overlap with the bottom third. Press the dough down and leave to rest for 30 minutes.
6. Cut the dough into four strips, then cut each strip into two pieces. Place on a greased baking tray, then place in the oven, lightly sprayed with water. Reduce the oven temperature to 200°C (400°F) and cook for 20 minutes, turning on the tray after 10 minutes, or until cooked and golden.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Going Back

mesa lunga

I mentioned how much I loved Adelaide, right? Since I got back, every time I see a sale airfare I ponder the possibility of going back over there soon. South Australia has some of the best local produce in the country and the high standard is truly evident in the quality of the restaurant dishes. One such example was Mesa Lunga, a tapas bar and restaurant on Gouger Street in the city. For lunch, we decided to try some pizzas, though their menu spans tapas, pasta and substantial mains as well.

The Margherita Pizza with tomato salsa, fiore de latte, tomatoes and fresh basil leaves with garlic infused extra virgin olive oil and sea salt ($16.50) was gorgeous, fresh and full of flavour. But what really caught my eye was the Pizza Anatra with confit duck leg, raddichio, pecorino and orange dressing ($21). I can’t go past a beautiful duck pizza, and the combination of flavours and textures here was really interesting and delicious.

But what I loved most of all was the dessert – panna cotta with vanilla bean, gianduja bunelos and coffee ice cream. The flavours all worked so well together. The bunelos were perfectly cooked and crispy on the outside, and I liked that the ice cream wasn’t too sweet or artificial tasting. Unfortunately I didn’t photograph my glass of sangria ($8) but I’d like to make a mention of how special it was, delicately flavoured and dangerously easy to drink!

Mesa Lunga – Corner Morphett & Gouger St Adelaide

hoffman's winery

One of my favourite parts of the trip was the few days we spent in McLaren Vale. I love visiting wine country and seeing the grape vines line the roads left and right. Unfortunately for us, the Kitchen Door at Penny’s Hill was fully booked, but I did pick up a couple of bottles of my favourite Mr Riggs sticky. After driving through steep and slightly scary dirt roads, we found a winery called Hoffman’s. The restaurant there is a converted old shed with lots of character.

The Chicken Roulade was served on a bed of pan-fried polenta, baby spinach and apple slices. It was a great blend of flavours and he really enjoyed it. I had the braised Duck Legs, with pear, almond and paprika, served on a white bean mash with steamed spring vegetables. It was full of flavour and well cooked – the meat literally fell off the bones. I also liked that the white bean mash had some texture to it, to keep things interesting.

For dessert, there was a banana pudding, served warm with figs and vanilla ice cream. It was a classic, comforting dessert on a drizzly day. I had the chocolate mousse cake. It was served with a tangy lime yoghurt that was interesting, though I’m not sure it worked as well as it could have. The cake was delicious and rich, and we left with happy, full tummies. Surprisingly, the only let down about the meal was the glass of wine I ordered, which unfortunately overpowered the subtle spices in the main course.

Hoffman’s McLaren Vale – Ingoldby Rd, McLaren Flat, McLaren Vale

Monday, November 2, 2009

Picnic Basket

berry & hazelnut cake

We’ve had some gorgeous spring-like weather here in Sydney lately. The sun is shining, the jacaranda trees are in full bloom with fallen purple blossoms all over the footpaths, and it’s a magical time of year to be outside. Predictably, I’ve been thinking about picnics (as usual). It’s time to dust off the trusty checked blanket, squeeze some lemons for homemade lemonade, gather your favourite people and head off to your favourite park for a long lazy afternoon in the sun. Perfect.

Here’s a fantastic cake recipe that would be just perfect for your picnic basket, making the most of the great berries that are coming into season now, combined with the great flavours of hazelnut and ricotta. It travels well, and is quite easy and quick to make. It is also lovely served with ice cream or a dollop of whipped cream, and a nice cup of tea for an afternoon snack. I would also like to mention that I had a slice today for morning tea, two days after I made the cake and it was still surprisingly beautifully fresh and moist.

Unfortunately my cake doesn’t look much like the picture from Gourmet Traveller with a beautiful layer of berries in the middle, but it is still absolutely delicious, even if your berries sink to the bottom like mine did! I also thought that the cake definitely needed more berry flavour so I have increased the amount in the recipe below.

Berry, Hazelnut and Ricotta Cake
Adapted from Gourmet Traveller
Serves 8

• 120g soft butter
• 240g caster sugar
• 2 eggs
• 125ml (½ cup) buttermilk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 225g plain flour
• 75g hazelnut meal
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
• 20g chopped hazelnuts (optional)

Ricotta Filling
• 150g ricotta
• 1 egg yolk
• 25g caster sugar
• ½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped

Berry Filling
• 250g mixed berries, such as strawberries, raspberries and blackberries
• 60g golden caster sugar
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F) and center a rack in the center of the oven.
2. Beat the butter and sugar together in an electric mixer until pale and fluffy. Add eggs and beat until smooth and creamy.
3. Add buttermilk and vanilla and beat to combine. Sift the flour, hazelnut meal, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda together. Add to the mixture and beat to combine. Stir through the chopped hazelnuts with a rubber spatula. Spoon half the mixture into the base of a greased and floured 18cm cake pan and set aside.
4. For ricotta filling, process ingredients in a food processor or with electric beaters until smooth, then spread over cake mix in pan.
5. For berry filling, combine berries, sugar and lemon in a bowl, then spoon over ricotta filling.
6. Spoon remaining cake mixture over berries and smooth the top. Bake for 1 hour or until golden and center is firm to touch when pressed gently with fingertips. Turn off oven and cool in oven.

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Bite Size

gougéres + cocktail

With October all but over, we are now well on our way to the festive season. Melbourne Cup is next week, the Christmas decorations are up in all the shops, and we’ve already started doing artwork for New Years Eve at work. I’ve got no idea where the year went, but I can’t really complain, because this means cocktail parties, and lots of them! Canapés served at functions can be very hit and miss sometimes, and it’s often hard to balance a tricky morsel on a napkin when you have a glass of wine (or a camera!) in your other hand.

gougéres

These gougéres are this month’s recipe from the Tartine cookbook, a perfect bite-size puff of savoury choux pastry, flavoured with Gruyére cheese, thyme and black pepper, although you could use any herbs or spices you like. I’d never made or eaten a savoury choux before – usually I stick to the sweet varieties – but this really worked. They are the perfect finger-food, and so moreish, in fact I would say completely addictive. The whole batch disappeared more quickly than I’d like to admit.

honey & thyme daiquiri

I paired them with a fantastic Honey and Thyme Daiquiri, adapted from this one on the Gourmet Traveller website, and finally christened the cocktail shaker I bought over six months ago! I cut back on the rum, upped the amount of honey and thyme water, and also added some vanilla sugar to the shaker, because I like a sweeter cocktail. The thyme flavour made it a perfect match for the gougéres.

I am also very excited to be a Featured Blogger on I Eat I Drink I Work for the next 12 weeks! It’s a great resource for food and hospitality news, and I’m thrilled to be involved. And don’t forget to check out Mark’s gougéres on No Special Effects.

Gougéres
Recipe from The Tartine Bakery Cookbook
Makes about 30

• 1 ¼ cups non-fat milk
• 140g unsalted butter
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup all purpose flour
• 5 large eggs
• ¾ cup Gruyére cheese, grated
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced

Topping
• Pinch salt
• Grated Gruyere, for sprinkling

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Line a baking sheet with non-stick baking paper.
2. To make the choux pastry, combine the milk, butter and salt in a heavy saucepan and place over medium heat until the butter melts and the mixture comes to a full boil. Add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon. Keep stirring until the mixture has formed a smooth mass and pulls away from the sides of the pan. This should take about 3 minutes.
3. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the eggs one at a time and mix on medium speed, incorporating each egg before adding the next. The mixture should be thick, smooth and shiny.
4. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer, add the cheese, pepper and thyme and mix in with a rubber spatula. Use a teaspoon or small ice cream scoop to drop the dough onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 4-5cm apart. Lightly sprinkle the top of each pastry with grated cheese and a small pinch of salt.
5. Place in the oven immediately and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until they have puffed and are nicely browned. Serve hot or warm, or at room temperature. Or they can be cooled completely and re-crisped in the oven for 5 minutes before serving.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Sugar Hit

mariott

The month of October seemed to fly past especially quickly this year, and with it went the first ever Sydney International Food Festival. For those not in Sydney, it’s a month-long festival celebrating great food, with plenty of opportunities to get involved. There are outdoor events, like the Danks Street Festival and the first ever Breakfast on the Bridge, as well as brunches, lunches and dinners at some of Sydney’s top restaurants. I didn’t manage to get to any of the ‘Lets do Lunch’ specials this year, and the my first visit to the Noodle Markets was a little disappointing, but what had me most excited was the Sugar Hits, held between 9-11pm every night for $20 including a glass of dessert wine or cognac.

With my two favourite dessert junkies, we decide to tackle two Sugar Hits in the one night, after a dinner of duck pizza and chicken wings at The Australian Hotel. The Macquarie Lounge in the Mariott Hotel was our first stop, a short walk from the Rocks on Pitt Street in Circular Quay. We were a little early, but the friendly waiter fixed us up with drinks, and then waited more than half an hour for our dessert plates to be brought out, which is surprising considering how quiet the Lounge seems to be on a Friday night.

It was described as a Valrhona Chocolate and Raspberry Symphony Delight – two slabs of chocolate mousse cake, one topped with a raspberry jelly compote, and the other with a chocolate glacage. There was also a mini chocolate macaron and a gorgeous pipe of tempered white and dark chocolate. The presentation was lovely but unfortunately the taste was not as impressive. The macaron was cold from the fridge, the chocolate pipe didn’t really taste like anything at all, and I’m very glad we shared two plates between three of us because I would never have been able to finish one by myself.

four seasons

From there we scurried around the corner to the Four Seasons Hotel. The Sugar Hit was held in The Café by Kables, though it was hard to find a waiter and he looked a little dumbfounded when we only ordered one plate to share. They offered a Baked Chocolate Mousse with Mandarin Sorbet and Anis Seed Croquant, which looked amazing on the plate. The mousse was sinfully thick and rich, but while the sorbet tasted nice, I think the mandarin flavour didn’t quite stand up to the richness of the chocolate. The tiny cubes of jelly were a nice touch and the anis seed croquant added some texture and crunch, and was thankfully not too liquorice-y. Again, I am very glad we were sharing this, because the chocolate was so intense.

And with plates scraped clean, full bellies and sugar highs, we headed off. Maybe our expectations had been set a little too high, but these desserts didn’t quite deliver on taste. Nevertheless, I’m sure I will be back again next year, I can never say no to dessert. If you do want to go along, you only have a few days left so hurry down! Bookings are highly recommended.

aftermath

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Daring Bakers: October

macarons

Wow. I can honestly say that this month’s Daring Bakers challenge was a challenge indeed, the most difficult one I’ve ever done – yes, even more than last December’s Yule Log! I always knew it would come up at some point, but I was hoping it would be later rather than sooner. This month’s challenge was Macarons. The delightful French sandwich cookies that are notoriously difficult to make, and something that I had never attempted before. I can’t say that the journey was easy, but it was definitely a learning curve, and I’m really glad I persevered and finally managed to make macarons.

From the beginning, I had serious problems with the challenge’s given recipe, and from the sounds of things on the forum I wasn’t the only one. After three complete failures following the recipe to the letter (and a lot of wasted eggwhites!) I decided to try Syrup & Tang’s recipe that used the Italian meringue method. This worked for me first time, and it was the best feeling to finally see that my macarons had feet!

Thinking up flavour combinations was the most fun part of this challenge, after seeing so many interesting ones posted on other blogs over the last few years. I decided to try my luck with the classic combination of Peanut Butter and Jelly flavour. I swapped out half the almond meal for ground peanuts when making the shell with a sprinkling of crushed peanuts on top, because I like my peanut butter crunchy. In between, I made a strawberry jelly disc. I really liked the combination of flavours and textures.

I still need a lot of practice with folding, piping and judging the baking times on my crazy oven, but this is a great first step to help me overcome my irrational fear of making macarons. I really look forward to experimenting further with flavour combinations and working on the technique in the future! The 2009 October Daring Bakers’ challenge was brought to us by Ami S. She chose macarons from Claudia Fleming’s The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern as the challenge recipe.

I won’t publish the recipe I used, but it’s here on Duncan’s blog Syrup and Tang along with many other helpful tips about making macarons.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Chocolate and Raspberry

chocolate raspberry muffins

Bourke Street Bakery. Utter those words and a good percentage of Sydney foodies will sigh happily with thoughts of their gorgeous ginger brulee tartlets, signature sausage rolls or their excellent coffee. I was lucky enough to be within walking distance of their now-defunct Broadway operation when I was at college and it became a regular haunt for mid-morning caffeination, an amazing sandwich at lunchtime or an afternoon sugar hit.

When I heard that Paul Allam and David McGuinness were about to release a Bourke Street Bakery cookbook, I was more excited than I’d care to admit and immediately ordered it. When it arrived, I stroked the cover and pored over the pages, knowing that soon there would be stains and flour between the pages. It was a bigger book than I’d expected, coming in at over 350 pages, with beautiful photography throughout. I joked with friends who know how relaxing making bread can be, that I would be so zen when I’d managed to get all the way through the book!

The first recipe I tried was for some absolutely delicious chocolate and raspberry muffins, and they did not disappoint. They were so simple to prepare, basically just using one bowl, which saves on some washing up. I also really liked that they were not overly sweet, unlike a lot of muffins you find in other cafes or coffee shops. The flavour combination was also spot on, but I think this would be a good base recipe for a variety of other flavours - anything you can think up! They would be equally perfect as a decadent breakfast or an afternoon snack with a cup of tea.

chocolate raspberry muffins

Dark Chocolate and Raspberry Muffins
Recipe adapted from Bourke Street Bakery by Paul Allam and David McGcuinness
Makes 12 or 24 depending on your muffin tin

• 400g (2 2/3 cups) plain flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 300g caster sugar
• 310g unsalted butter
• 480ml buttermilk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3 eggs
• 225g dark chocolate, roughly chopped
• 225g raspberries, fresh or frozen
• 55g raw sugar
• Icing sugar, for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Lightly grease a 12-hole muffin tin and line with paper cases.
2. Sift the flour and baking paper into a bowl and add the sugar, mixing well to combine.
3. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat, then remove from the heat and stir in the buttermilk. Using a whisk stir in the eggs to combine. Pour over the dry ingredients and whisk to combine. Use a large spoon to gently fold through the chocolate and raspberries.
4. Spoon the mixture into the prepared muffin tins. Sprinkle the tops with raw sugar. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C (350°F) and bake for 20-25 minutes. It may be necessary to drop the temperature about 10 minutes before the end of baking time if the muffins are starting to brown on top.
5. To test if the muffins are done, push the top gently to feel that it is firm. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tins for 10 minutes before eating. Dust with icing sugar to serve.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Comfort Zone

spiced tapioca pudding

I am the first to admit that when it comes to ‘alternative’ cooking, I don’t have a clue. Which is why I was intrigued when I received an email from Clare at Mark Communications offering to send me some samples of a new Carnation product – Soy Creamy Cooking Milk, created to cater for anyone with special dietary requirements. It is both lactose and gluten free, low fat, and also suitable for vegetarians. It’s the only soy-based product available in Australia suitable for cooking purposes. But what does it taste like?

It took me a little while to actually decide what to make with the product – maybe a panna cotta or a creamy pasta dish. I finally decided on tapioca pudding, a delicious dessert that can be flavoured in any way you can think up. I chose to use some warm spices – a cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, fresh ginger and vanilla bean to infuse the Soy Creamy Cooking milk before adding the pre-soaked tapioca pearls.

Surprisingly, it didn’t have an overwhelming flavour and the spices worked exceptionally well with the subtle nuttiness of the soy. To make it extra special, a few chopped dry figs (or other dried fruit would work as well) and a scattering of roasted nuts on top made it a perfect dessert that anyone can enjoy. Thanks again to Clare for sending the samples and pushing me out of my comfort zone! Carnation Soy Creamy Cooking Milk is available in supermarkets nationwide for RRP $2.85.

carnation creamy cooking milk

Spiced Fig and Tapioca Pudding
Serves 4

• ½ cup tapioca pearls
• 1 x 375ml can Carnation Soy Creamy Cooking Milk
• ¾ cup soy milk
• 3 cardamom pods
• 1 cinnamon stick
• ½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped
• 3-4 thin slices fresh ginger, peeled
• 55g caster sugar
• Pinch of salt
• Dried figs, chopped
• Slivered almonds, or hazelnuts or pistachios, chopped and roasted for 5-10 minutes.

1. The night before you plan to serve the pudding, place tapioca pearls in a bowl with some cold water, using enough to allow to pearls to expand. Leave to soak overnight.
2. Drain and set aside.
3. In a medium saucepan, combine the Carnation soy cooking milk, soy milk, cardamom, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean and seeds and the ginger. Bring to the boil, then cover and allow to infuse for 30 minutes.
4. Bring back to the boil, add the sugar and salt, and stir until dissolved. Add the tapioca. Cook for 20-30 minutes, stirring constantly until tapioca is tender and well cooked.
5. Serve warm in ramekins or small bowls scattered with dried figs and nuts.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar

sparrow kitchen & bar

I recently got back from one of the nicest holidays I’ve had in a long time. Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, a two-hour flight from Sydney, and a really lovely little city. Quiet maybe but definitely not boring, with so many fabulous restaurants to try, and one of the most amazing produce markets I’ve ever seen right in the center of the city. I’ve only been home for a week, but I’m already thinking about going back. One of my favourite restaurants we visited was called Sparrow Kitchen and Bar in North Adelaide, a short cab ride (we had a mental taxi driver who was too busy pointing out the landmarks to worry that he was driving on the wrong side of the road) or a 30-minute walk from the city center. I read about the restaurant in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, and with a dish called Duck Donuts on the menu, it was clear that I had to visit.

sparrow kitchen & bar

I fancied the quirky yet classy décor, especially the sparrow pictures coloured in by kids in the hallway near the bathrooms. The menu was comprehensive, covering everything from tapas to seafood to pizzas and a wine list that left you spoiled for choice. It was a quiet Thursday lunch on our first visit, when we were told the sad news that their pizza oven was on the fritz, but the rest of the menu was available. Unfortunate, since the both of us had our eye on the pizzas, but it nonetheless gave us a reason to return.

sparrow kitchen & bar

There was a nice selection of tapas, though items were priced and served individually which sort of goes against the “sharing” concept that is usually associated with tapas. We of course tried the duck donuts with porcini salt ($3.80 each), a crispy dough exterior giving way to tender shredded duck meat inside. It was very flavoursome and a great blend of textures. I could have eaten many more of these, and sort of wish I had.

sparrow kitchen & bar

I can never go past a mini wagyu burger, there is something so cute about them. This was served with pancetta and beetroot crisp ($5.80), and although this one was delicious, nothing can compare to those we had from Etch at the Taste of Sydney launch. We also tried the Giant South Australian prawn with garlic and lemon ($8.50), and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a bigger prawn in my life! It was very tasty, although slightly messy to eat as we had to shell it ourselves.

sparrow kitchen & bar

On our second visit, we ordered fewer tapas, knowing how full we were after last time. The braised pork and fennel sausages ($12) were tiny in size but full of flavour, served in a tomato sauce. I had a lone mushroom arancini ($3.50) which was one of the nicest I’ve ever had – perfectly cooked risotto, with a golden and crispy fried exterior.

sparrow kitchen & bar

With pizzas out of the question, we both settled on pasta dishes. There was a great variety with very unique flavour combinations. The angel hair with cockles, peas and mint ($14.90) also went down well, with great fresh ingredients. It was a very summery dish that I think worked quite well.

sparrow kitchen & bar

For me, it was quite a tough decision between Rabbit Linguine with almonds and thyme, Pappadelle with beef cheek ragu and the Spaghetti with goat meatballs, nutmeg and basil but I was happy with my choice of spaghetti ($16.90). The entrée serving was very generous and I loved every bite. The meatballs were perfect and flavoursome with the addition of fennel seeds, and I thought this was a very successful modern take on a classic pasta dish that teamed perfectly with the glass of New Zealand Pinot Noir I was drinking.

sparrow kitchen & bar

On our second visit, thankfully, the pizza oven was back in working order. The scallop pizza was a relatively new addition to the menu, which has not been updated on the website yet, so sorry no price for this one. It was served with red cabbage and pesto. The flavours were interesting but I don’t think I would order this for myself.

sparrow kitchen & bar

However, I was very happy with my choice of BBQ Rabbit Pizza with home made BBQ sauce, rosemary and fontina ($17.90). I hadn’t eaten rabbit in a long time, and didn’t know that it was actually white meat! The pizza had a great blend of sophisticated and yet homely flavours that worked well and I really enjoyed it.

sparrow kitchen & bar

We were seriously full by this point, but luckily my second stomach kicked into gear when asked if we’d like to see the dessert menu. There several intriguing dishes that caught my fancy, but we decided to share some churros with chocolate sauce ($8.50). The churros were nice, although I would have preferred a thicker, richer chocolate sauce to dip into.

sparrow kitchen & bar

On our second visit, the lovely waitress convinced me that I must try the Treacle tart with goat’s cheese ice cream ($7.50). I liked the deconstructed approach, with the toasted bread crumbs served separately from the tart.
It was a rather small serving, but quite delicious. Neither the tart nor the ice cream were very sweet though, and perhaps just boosting the sugar a tiny bit would have made it even better.

sparrow kitchen & bar

The Crema catalana ($9) was a big success though, with the telltale visible vanilla seeds and a delicate flavour. I was, however expecting the top to be bruleed and crunchy, but it was a liquid caramel like you’d find in a crème caramel. And so, both times we left happy, with full tummies after lazy long lunches. I especially liked the mix of classiness and quirkiness in the décor, and the unique reinterpretations of classic dishes with some of South Australia’s finest produce that really characterise the menu. I think it’s safe to say I’ll be back for a third visit next time I’m in town – they serve breakfast on the weekend as well!

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar – 10 O’Connell St North Adelaide
http://www.sparrowkitchenandbar.com.au/